PATTERNS OF ISTANBUL

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 Glorious mosaic patterns were to be found everywhere in Istanbul.  If you are an artist in need of inspiration, Istanbul would be a good place to visit.

                                                                 The Blue Mosque
So many times when we enter ancient places of worship the interiors are very dark.  What a surprise then to walk into the Blue Mosque, built in the early 1600's, and see all these gorgeous tiled patterns of light and uplifting colors.



                                                                     The Blue Mosque



                                                                The Blue Mosque



                                                                  The Royal Mausoleum
                                                   Sultans and family members entombed here


                                                                      Hagia Sophia
                            Orginally built as a Christian church, Hagia Sophia is now a museum



                                                                      Hagia Sophia




                                                     Painted ceiling at Hagia Sophia



                                                                     Hagia Sophia



                                                              Courtyard at Topkapi Palace



                                                           Tiled wall at Topkapi Palace



                                                        A walkway at Topkapi Palace




                                                          The Harem at Topkapi Palace

     
                                                              Roman Cisterns
                              Love that they made the effort to beautifully design water storage



                                                          The Mosque of Suleyman



                                                       Carpet at Mosque of Suleyman



                                                             Mosque of Suleyman

COOKING IN ISTANBUL - Cooking Alaturka

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This is one of my favorite things to do while traveling - take a cooking class.  After checking around I chose Cooking Alaturka mostly because reviewers just raved about the owner, Eveline, and her chef Feyzi. 

There were eleven of us and we all had a good time cooking together and then dining on the finished product.


                              So, let's get right to it and start chopping away with the machete!


                                                     Chopping mint, parsley, and dill


                          Because of the cooking time, we started with the eggplant boats
                                                     


                                                Then on to the stuffed grape leaves      
                           The trick is to roll them tightly so that they don't fall apart during cooking  


                       Semolina cakes hot out of the oven and then doused with a simple syrup
                                                  The syrup is absorbed as the cakes cool
                                                       

                                                                   DINNER TIME!

                                    Red lentil and bulgur soup with dried mint and chili pepper
                                                               (Ezogelin corbasi)
                                   This is one of the best soups I've ever tasted and the first recipe
                                                 I will make when the weather cools down


       
                                                Zucchini patties with herbs and cheese
                                                               (Kabak mueveri)
                                               Light and crispy, no extra seasoning required



                                           Eggplant braised in olive oil with onion and tomato
                                                                  (Imam bayildi)
  While I really enjoyed these, this recipe requires a lot of olive oil so I doubt I will make
                  Plus, eggplant is not at the top of my family's favorite vegetable list



                                                   Vine leaves stuffed with minced meat
                                                              (Etli yaprak dolmasi)

       These hot stuffed grape leaves were so delicious that I don't think I can ever eat them cold again
                                        Really, a lovely dish that holds its own as an entree        
                                         


                                  Semolina sponge cakes with hazelnuts and a dusting of pistachios
                                                                      (Sekerpare)

                                    Heaven--we all could have eaten more.  So sweet and moist.



                                                                      Apple tea
                                                              My new favorite tea


     
                                                      A happy, friendly, helpful group


                                                 
                                                                     Chef Feyzi
                                (He looks so stern but he's very funny and offered great instruction)



                                                            George and Eveline
                                          Eveline runs the outfit and teaches, George is her
                                                               happy partner

Recipes will follows when I recreate--assuming the Arizona weather cools down some day

ETON MESS

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In honor of the London Olympics, I am interrupting my stream of Istanbul posts to bring you the easiest, yummiest dessert from the UK--you will love!  Really, the easiest dessert on the planet.



Had this for the first time at the Carriage House, the restaurant at Chatsworth (more on that, soon). You can, of course, go ahead and make the meringues yourself, but it is so much easier to use pre-baked meringues and not heat up your kitchen in August.

Strawberries, cleaned, hulled and chopped
Sugar to taste
Meringue cookies from Trader Joe's
1 cup of heavy cream
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
1/4 cup powdered sugar

Clean and chop strawberries, add sugar.  Let sit for at least an hour.

Beat cream until stiff, then add vanilla and powdered sugar.  Whip until blended.

Layer in individual cups: one broken meringue cookie, strawberries, whipped cream. Then layer again. The end.

TURKISH DELIGHTS - FOOD & SHOPPING

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                                              Stacks of Turkish Delight can be found everywhere
                       I love the stuff.  Chewy, sticky little cubes of gelatin, sugar, pistachios, and doused with powdered sugar.  A variety of flavors but the pistachio version is my favorite.                    


      One of several entrances to the Grand Bazaar--Istanbul's largest covered market and the center of trade for the Ottoman Empire.


We found it best to avoid those shops right next to the gates (entrances) because the merchants were harder to deal with and more aggressive. Walking to the center and off the main thoroughfare of the bazaar we found better merchandise and less pleading to buy the wares.



As we walked by the merchants shouted, "Angelie Jolie" or "Madonna", "please let me help you spend your money!"




                                 Outside the Grand Bazaar - also teeming with stalls of stuff.


The Spice Market where we purchased Turkish chili powder to make the delicious Red Lentil soup and apple tea.

                                                       Hand made Turkish dumplings


Our cute guide, Yusuf Kurt, brought us to his favorite lunch place, Sultanahmet Koftecisi, and ordered for us which is good because I don't think they had a menu. We started with a simple salad of white beans, red onions, tomatoes, lettuce, a bit of olive oil, and red wine vinegar.  Very refreshing and I will recreate at home.


These are meatballs with a side of red pepper paste that is not spicy but adds a depth of smoky flavor. Also delicious.


Different lunch place, Ney'le Mey'le, and the waiter, Bayram, was darling--he served us fresh mackerel with a chopped salad.  He deboned the mackerel when he realized we had no clue what we were doing.



Love these Turkish towels from a little shop, Jennifer's Hamam, in the Arasta Bazaar. We liked this little bazaar because prices were noted and when we purchased a few items we would receive a 20% discount.


This guy was darling.  We would point to what we wanted and he filled our bag with what he thought best.  He was right, of course.  Delicious baklava and other phyllo dough honeyed treats at Edebiyat Kiraathanesi.


Turkish ice cream is made with goats milk and ground powder from wild orchids.  It is sticky and stretchy so the ice cream dippers play all sorts of tricks (pretending to drop it, turning it over so you think the ice cream will plop to the ground) before they hand you your cone.  We didn't love it the first time we tried it so we went to Mado's, reportedly the best in Istanbul, and it was good.


Three of the four gorgeous lanterns I purchased to hang in my backyard for a little touch of Istanbul.


                                         Leslie bought the hanging fixture for her backyard.


This shop, Cocoon, was darling--the only shop that we found with a woman running the place.  The young woman's grandmother started this shop to feature handmade items made by local stay at home moms.  Several of these pieces are made by tatting, a series of knots to make lace-like pieces.


                           I bought two necklaces for my 14 year old niece and she loved them.

Of course there is so much more to show--scarfs, rugs, textiles, jewelry, pottery, etc.  (A few more  purchases will show up in future posts.) Turkey is full of talented craftsman and artists - I could have brought home trunks full of gorgeous pieces and spices.